Monday, 29 September 2008

Dumb Foreigner

As a white foreigner in Japan I stand out. When I do something stupid (which happens often) I stand out even more.

Sometimes this is a good thing, for example getting directions when lost (which happens embarrassingly often) or getting out of minor troubles - a sort of get-out-of-jail-free card. When done on purpose it is called "playing the gaijin (foreigner) card" and can come in handy sometimes.

On the flip side, however, is the fact that if I make a mistake it is because I'm a foreigner. It may be actually due to the fact that I wasn't listening, or because I'm exhausted, or because I had a brain fart, or - wonder of wonders - I'm just plain dumb, but whatever the situation it will be chalked up to me being a foreigner.

I'm always trying to get rid of change in my wallet. Quite often I'll count out coins and give then to the cashier only to have them smile at me patronizingly as they assume I've just stepped off the plane and haven't figured out the currency - when in actual fact I just can't count!

Tonight, is another good example. I showed up for a class the time of which I had been warned might change. When I checked last week, however, no announcement had been posted in the *terribly technologically advanced* announcement system - aka a cork board on the 19th floor. I was running a bit late tonight and decided just to go right to the class. When I cracked open the door of the room, however, 4 stunned faces greeted me. They looked... well they looked like some half-mad white girl had just barged in on them! (the profs and students of my own department are all used to me and treat me completely normally, but others around the university, especially up on the grad floors, tend to freak out upon seeing me).

Sigh.

Episode 31

Unfortunately I was not able to record episode 30, and while I did watch snippets of it while dad and I had lunch in a random restaurant on a very very very rainy Rebun Island off the north-west coast of Hokkaido, I can't write anything approaching a description so am skipping ahead to episode 31, the last one I agreed to do months ago (sorry for how horribly delayed I am) for Auberginefleur. I still haven't watched episodes after that, but am not planning on writing up any more episodes at this time.

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Ii hiked crackdown on those in reverence for the Emperor and the exclusion of foreigners, and Muraoka, who serves the head of Konoe family in Kyoto and attended Tenshoin’s wedding as her mother, was imprisoned. Trying to save Muraoka, Tenshoin sends her a white kimono which she wore at her wedding. Clad in the kimono, Muraoka pressures the interrogators by telling to whom the white kimono belonged and successfully proves her innocence. Meanwhile, Ikushima tells Tenshoin her intention to resign.
(Official NHK Website English plot summary)



Ii’s attacks against Hitotsubashi supporters continue as more an more individuals are targeted, moving closer and closer to Tenshoin herself.

With the end of the year approaching, Tenshoin has all of her kimono brought out in order to give them away to the members of the Ooku, allowing them to chose their favourites. Ikushima becomes very annoyed when one of the ladies asks about a white kimono worn by Tenshoin on her wedding night.

The new shogun, Iemochi, comes to the Ooku to visit Tenshoin. He admits to Tenshoin that he was warned by Ii to focus on governing and to stop visiting the Ooku. Ii told him that it was Ii who was there to assist in governing, not the Ooku, not Tenshoin. Neither Tenshoin nor Iemochi, however, are impressed with Ii's methods of "strengthening" the bakufu, and agree that while they may not always be certain of the right thing to do, they will discuss anything and everything and move forward together.

Tatewaki and Okubo are discussing Nariakira's half-brother Tadayuki and whether or not he was involved in the banishment of Saigo to Oshima. Tatewaki defends Tadayuki and says that he believes the latter is dedicated to following Nariakira’s will.

Ii’s rounding up of anti-bakufu supporters continues, affecting not only masterless samurai, but also those in higher ranked families. Tenshoin discovers that Muraoka of the Konoe family has been arrested for her involvement in passing the letter to Saigo. With Tenshoin's connections to the Konoe family, Tenshoin and Ikushima are desperate to do something for Muraoka. Tenshoin demands to see Ii, but he refuses to see her, sending a low-ranked minister in his place. Tenshoin is greatly angered by this and is only stopped from going to see Ii herself by her new lady-in-waiting, Shigeno (chosen as a replacement by Ikushima). Tenshoin instead instructs the minister to tell Ii that lord Konoe is her father, and Muraoka acted as her mother in her marriage to Iesada. They are important people to Tenshoin and, as such, must be treated properly. When the message is passed to Ii he remarks sardonically that those who supported the Hitotsubashi have yet to figure out the danger they are in.

Konoe is removed from his position as Imperial Minister of the Left. When Ikushima hears of this she begs Tenshoin to speak to Iemochi about it, but Takimiya steps in and says that Tenshoin should not speak to Iemochi about this matter as it would play into Ii’s plans perfectly and involve the Ooku. An angered Ikushima retorts that it was Takimiya who supported Ii's appointment. Takimiya agrees that it was her fault and she regrets it, but that it makes no bearing on the issue, and begs Tenshoin not to involve Iemochi in a personal matter of hers.

Later, when Iemochi and Tenshoin meet at daily prayers, Iemochi can tell that something is wrong. He asks her what is wrong, and tells her she does not need to suffer by herself, but Tenshoin brushes away his worries.

With Muraoka sent to Edo and imprisoned awaiting her trial, Tenshoin and Shigeno discuss what could be done. As Tenshoin is praying to her Buddhist statue, she is suddenly hit by inspiration and calls for Ikushima – who arrives bearing a tray and wrapped gift - the two have both come up with the same plan. Tenshoin calls for a palanquin and is ready to leave when Ikushima stops her, saying that if Tenshoin goes herself things will get too big, and that Ikushima will go instead.

Ikushima goes to where Muraoka is being held and demands to see the prisoner. The official guarding Muraoka refuses, but Ikushima insists, saying she has a gift from Tenshoin to Muraoka. When he refuses still she draws herself up and insists that turning away a gift from Tenshoin, the widow of the late shogun, is the same as turning away the very bakufu itself. The official is cowed and allows Ikushima to see Muraoka. Ikushima unwraps Tenshoin’s white wedding night kimono – to which Muraoka tears up in gratitude. With the official telling them to hurry up, Ikushima tells Muraoka that she is in the prayers of both Ikushima and Tenshoin.

Muraoka shows up to her trial in the white kimono the judge is shocked by the symbolism, and questions Muraoka harshly. With a dark and stormy backdrop of thunder and lightening, Muraoka explains that the robe is a wedding gown and she is wearing it to represent the occasion. For never in her 72 years did she ever imagine she would be in a situation like this. As if by magic, the weather clears, and she is bathed in a halo of sunlight. The judge demands that the kimono be removed from her. The samurai attempt to do so but she will not let them touch her, insisting that it is a gift from her daughter, Tenshoin, who was married to the shogun, the peak of the Tokugawa family. She says that touching the gown is the same as touching the very symbol of the Tokugawa family, and should not be done lightly. The judge is visibly shaken by this and angrily tells her that he will continue with the trial, simple clothing will not save her. He demands to be told of the meeting between Gessho, the Konoe family and representatives from Satsuma. Muraoka responds that as Rojo she knows nothing of those who visit. He presses for a straight answer, and she repeats forcefully that she knows nothing. It is clear she is not going to say anything. In the end she was held for 30 days and then released.

Having heard about Muraoka and Tenshoin's connections to her, Iemochi asks Tenshoin why she did not tell him. She responds that there was nothing he could have done, and he is angered, telling her that it doesn’t matter, he wanted her to tell him anyways so he could have at least shared her pain. Besides, if she won’t tell him what is bothering her, he will not be able to tell her when things are upsetting him, and that will be a problem. She smiles and tells him how happy she is to have been blessed with such a wonderful son.

In Satsuma, Narioki passes away. With his last breath he regrets that his life is ending just as his role was starting. Tadayuki is now in sole charge of the domain, and announces his intention to follow Nariakira's will to his high-ranking retainers. Some of the low-ranking samurai are meanwhile meeting to discuss Ii and read a letter from compatriots in Edo. The men are angered by Ii’s actions, and get worked up, deciding that if they want something done they’ll have to do it themselves. They are ready to storm off to Edo and do something about Ii, but Okubo stops them, telling them Saigo's advice just before he was banished to Oshima. Saigo told Okubo that if they were to make a move they should wait until things were at a boiling point, or else they’d get burnt themselves. Okubo doesn’t think things are there quite yet, and as a result they should wait before making their move.

Tenshoin’s wedding kimono is returned to her, with the message from Muraoka that at least this one should be kept by Tenshoin. Tenshoin comments that it is remarkable how both she and Ikushima thought of the same thing, the same way to save Muraoka. Ikushima responds that having served Tenshoin for so long she knows what Tenshoin is thinking. Tenshoin asks Ikushima to guess what she is thinking right now. Ikushima responds by reminding Tenshoin that she wants to retire and leave the Ooku. Tenshoin asks why and Ikushima responds that she wants to leave before she creates a problem for Tenshoin. For at some point in the future she knows she would be in the way when Tenshoin had to decide between Satsuma and the Tokugawa family. And besides, she says that there is nothing left for her to teach Tenshoin, that Tenshoin has it in herself to lead the Ooku all by herself now. Tenshoin fondly remembers how far the two have come together, how Ikushima was by her side in Nariakira’s palace in Satsuma, on the tempestuous boat trip to Edo, and throughout her time in the Ooku, Ikushima was her guardian shadow. Tenshoin tells Ikushima she wants her to take the precious wedding night kimono. There is only ever one wedding night in a girl's life, and she wants Ikushima to take the kimono as a memento of everything that the two have been through together. As a final request, Ikushima requests that Tenshoin put on the robe one last time. Seeing Tenshoin dressed in the kimono, Ikushima remembers sending Atsuhime off on her wedding night and starts crying. The two teas each other for their sentimentality as they cry.

Saturday, 27 September 2008

Episode 29

Atsuhime is struck with deep grief after learning Iesada's death and blames herself for pressuring him in politics. Atsuhime becomes a Buddhist nun and is named Tenshoin. She faces Ii to pursue Iesada's will to act as Yoshitomi's guardian. Nariakira's death caused confusion in Satsuma which Saigo tries to settle by following the late master's will.
(Official NHK Website English plot summary)



Atsuhime is despondent in her despair over Iesada’s death, sitting in her room and doing nothing, staring into space with tears rolling down her face. Atsuhime confesses to Ikushima that she blames herself for Iesada’s death, feeling that she pushed him into meeting Harris and choosing a successor, forcing him out of his pretense of idiocy. When Atsuhime does not go to morning prayers as usual, Iesada’s mistress, Shiga, begins to worry about Iesada.

Saigo was in Kyoto when he heard of Nariakira’s death. With the bond between Saigo and his lord so strong, the Buddhist monk Gessho is worried that Saigo will commit suicide to follow Nariakira. Urging Saigo to live and ensure the fruition of Nariakira's dreams, Gessho offers to take Nariakira's place, telling Saigo to symbolically place his "life" in the monk's hands. When Muraoka enters the room Saigo attempts to hide his emotions but Muraoka notices nonetheless, and comments on the luck of the Lord of Satsuma in having such good subjects. She then she presents Saigo with a letter from Konoe to the Bakufu, an attempt to put into play Nariakira's dreams. Saigo is requested to present the letter to the Bakufu and is greatly honoured by this request.

After the funeral for Nariakira, Tatewaki is summoned to meet with Nariakira’s half-brother, Tadayuki. Tadayuki remarks that, unlike his worldly brother, he is a country bumpkin and knows nothing of the world outside of Satsuma. He asks Tatewaki to be his advisor, for he is going to require all the help he can get if he is to put into place his brother's dreams. Tadayuki announces his intentions to do just that. Even if it takes many years he wants to build an army and then head for Kyoto and towards Edo. As the two toast the future with red wine from France, Tadayuki worries about how his father, Narioki, could cause trouble for him. Meanwhile, convinced of his son's inability to lead Satsuma, Narioki is planning to return to the domain to take over.

Atsuhime asks Ikushima what Iesada’s mother has been told, and insists that she wants to tell Honjuin about his death. Atsuhime remarks sadly that finding out he had passed away was all the more painful the longer it took for her to be told. She does not want to inflict the same pain on Honjuin and feels that it is especially important for his mother to know he has died.

Shiga visits Atsuhime, bringing with her homemade sweets that make Atsuhime think of Iesada. When Shiga asks abouts Iesada, Atsuhime tells her that it is as she thinks it is. Shiga pushes for a firm answer and Atsuhime tells her that he is no longer of this world, and then immediately apologizes saying that she knew but was sworn to secrecy. A distressed Shiga starts berating Atsuhime for not taking better care of the weak and sickly Iesada, and a stone-faced Atsuhime can do nothing more than apologize. As soon as Shiga leaves, Atsuhime goes to Honjuin’s rooms to tell her as well. At first Honjuin laughs and attempts to shake the news off as some sort of joke. Gradually, however, she realizes that Atsuhime’s story is true and flies into a rage, blaming Atsuhime for killing her son, beating Atsuhime with the flowers she had been arranging. Takiyama goes to stop Honjuin from attaking Atsuhime with wooden arm-rest, but Atsuhime yells not to stop her, apologizing and sayaing that she only just heard her self and she can only imagine the anger of a parent in finding out their son is long dead. When taken to Iesada’s funerary alter, Honjuin breaks down asking Iesada why he went before his mother, why he left her all alone in the world.

In Kyoto the emperor summons the lord of the Mito domain to the court to present him with a chokujo, an imperial order presented directly to the lord and bypassing the bakufu. This blatant disregard for the authority of the bakufu enrages Ii who vows to have revenge on the Mito domain and those who supported Yoshinobu.

Iesada’s remains are interred in Ueno’s Kan’ei-ji, and the women of the Ooku begin to plan for the ceremony marking Atsuhime's new status. With her husband dead, her hair is to be cut and she is to become a Buddhist nun. Ikushima offers to take care of preparing Atsuhime herself, and even manages to coax a smile from the despondent Atsuhime, as she teases the young widow. Ikushima then tells her that when her hair is cut she will be reborn, and Atsuhime comments that she has already lived many different lives. With a soft smile on her face she comments that no matter what, Ikushima will remain beside her. Ikushima's face clouds at this, and she changes the subject deftly. The ceremony is held a few days later, and Atsuhime is given the new name of Tenshoin, which she says makes her feel closer to the departed Iesada who was also given a new name. Shiga decides to withdraw from the Ooku, retiring to become a nun herself In their parting, the two women both beg forgiveness from each other, but Tenshoin tells Shiga she has nothing to apolgoize for, as she was in the right. Shiga responds by asking Tenshoin why she cries, saying that Tenshoin was obviously loved by Iesada, since he showed her his real self instead of pretending to be an idiot. The fact that he never did this for Shiga proves that he did not love her in the same way. Having been loved by one you yourself love, says Shiga, is pure luxury. Shiga’s words prompt Tenshoin out of her despondency, reminding her of Iesada telling her he wanted her to help in the ruling when Yoshitomi became shogun. Tenshoin calls Ii to remind him of Iesada’s wishes, but Ii feigns surprise and says he has never heard of the idea. He insists that Tenshoin should relax in the Ooku, leaving the ruling to be done by him and the others ministers. Tenshoin is angered by this and insists that she will not and cannot ignore the deceased Shogun’s wishes.

Moving on Out!

I sat down the other day and tried to figure out just how many places I've lived in over the years. I had to count, then re-count, then re-count again as I kept reminding myself of somewhere else that I lived. In the end I decided that, over the past 30 years I have lived in 22 different homes in 4 countries. Add in the number of times I went back to somewhere I had lived before, and subtract the 7 years of elementary school when I didn't move once, and I figure I had to go through the entire moving process nearly twice a year! No wonder I have freakishly good abilities when it comes to packing the maximum amount of stuff into the minimum amount of space.

With a track record like that it should come as no surprise that after a relatively lengthy 18 months at the same address I'm on the move again! While I am normally not thrilled about moving, this time around I couldn't be happier! I have definitely been living in the dorm for TOOOOOO long. Yes, I am ready for my own place, a place where I don't have to worry about random unknown sticky substances on the kitchen floor, or 35 strangers leaving their dirty dishes in the sink, or unidentifiable charred substances burnt onto the stove top. (with that description of the communal kitchen on my floor in the dorm I am sure you understand why I don't cook!) I'm also very excited about having a nice deep Japanese bath instead of lockable communal shower stalls.

My new apartment may have only one real room and the kitchen may be in the hall, but the space is mine! (or will be once I've actually moved in) What I like best about my new place, however, is that there are more windows and closets/cabinets. Storage space is severely limited in the average Japanese apartment, but this one has the requisite closet plus an extra closet. The kitchen (aka the hall) is lined with cabinets too. I'm still going to need a few bookshelves, but I am a grad student after all! My room is at one end of the building, and the layout takes advantage of this fact - there is a triangular bit with windows poking out... I'm not sure how to describe it, but it is the first thing I noticed about the room from the floor plan and loved it from the start. When I walked into the room for the first time I immediately had an image in my mind of a nice big table angled into the corner window so I could sit and study and take advantage of the sunlight while also having a nice view of the greenery right outside the window and the park by the river on the other side of the narrow road.

I'm a little further from the station than I had hoped to be, it is apparently a 15 minute walk. But, to balance it out, once I get to the station it is only about 10 minutes to school and a half an hour to work. I'm excited about this, but also somewhat nervous as I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to get any knitting done if my hour commute disappears!

Tuesday, 23 September 2008

Museum Nerds Unite!

Having attended two different graduate student museum studies study groups in the past four days I've been thinking about the saying "be careful what you wish for" a lot recently!

Today's study group was completely different from the one a few days ago, but was also good fun and was of course followed by a nomi-kai (drinking party). My favourite moment of the night was near the end, when a somewhat tipsy and rather red-faced grad student apologized for having gotten so animated (he had been going on very passionately about one of the presentations made earlier in the evening). He hung his head and grinned sheepishly, saying "I just get so excited when I talk about museums!"

I think I've found kindred spirits!

Sunday, 21 September 2008

One of Those Days

The other day I had one of those days - the kind that has me questioning just why it is I've made the somewhat masochistic decision to live in a foreign country. It seemed that nothing I did was quite right, and everything took two or three times longer than I thought it should. I was finding the easiest things difficult, things I've done before without much trouble. Just one of those days.

A typhoon was approaching and promising torrential rains and I wanted nothing more than to take the train home and listen to the rain fall from the sheltered confines of my dorm. I had agreed to attend a study group and so instead of feeling sorry for myself and hiding, I got on a train and headed off to a university seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Walking to the university through the dark and deserted streets, dodging puddles and attempting to stay dry, I was seriously doubting my decision to go the study group. The deserted university didn't make me feel any better but, surprisingly, my day was about to take a dramatic turn for the better.

This particular university is home to a research centre focusing on ethnology, history and museum studies. Four years ago a small group of graduate students affilliated with the centre formed a museum studies study group. The group has grown and now includes both current students and past graduates. They meet twice a month to listen to and discuss presentations made by their members, and also go on a museum field trip once a month. The talk this past Friday night was short but the discussion that followed was lively. The dinner/drinks that followed were just as lively and had me heading home on close to the last train.

Although it was the first time anybody from outside their university had attended, I felt nothing but 100% welcome. In the space of a few short weeks I've gone from only knowing one other student in museum studies, to meeting neary 2 dozen others and now have the opportunity to attend 4 meetings per month! Wow.

As I walked home from the train station in the pouring rain, not even getting doused by cars hitting puddles could dampen my mood. It had turned into one of those days - the kind that made me shake my head over how much I enjoy what I am doing. I grinned as I thought about how lucky I am to be able to have the opportunity to be studying something that I love. I felt like I belong and this is so right. Just one of those days.